舊物都市|City of Antiques|アンティークのまち

北野天滿宮骨董市(天神市)|Kitano Tenmangu Antique Market|北野天満宮骨董市(天神市)

北野天滿宮骨董市(天神市)一隅|A peek of Kitano Tenmangu Antique Market|北野天満宮骨董市(天神市)

 

跟很多歷史舊城一樣,京都堆滿了舊物。正如每一條街道都總有一兩所寺社,同樣地京都四周盡是古董店和古書店。上千年來,這都城的人製造了無數美麗的東西,這些東西被收藏、珍愛、傳承。大和民族對於物件有種近乎癖嗜的眷戀,即使是最微細最尋常的東西,日本的職人都力盡完美,每件物品,低至最小的部件,造工都認真仔細,而且堅守美的原則。造出來的東西往往被珍而重之,使用的時候很小心不讓之弄花弄破,甚至造出更多美麗的器皿用以盛載保存各種物件道具。在這樣的戀物文化下,不難理解為何日本人那麼喜歡雜貨、各類「小物」和「小物入れ」;出現在䌓華商店街的古董店古書店、人頭湧湧的古董市集也是自然不過的風景。

有意無意間,總是在逛街的時候偶然遇上古董店。不是那種貴價古玩店,而是亂七八糟甚麼垃圾都放在一起賣的神奇小店。昭和時期的兒童故事繪本、名信片、郵票、火柴盒、塑膠玩偶玩具、不知從何而來的衣物首飾皮包皮箱、疑似萬聖節用的頭套面具、SM道具、小學生的木桌木椅、某間已經不存在的店舖的招牌…… 盡是些怎麼看都只能是垃圾的、很可能得再等上一百年才能等到下一位主人或者終於被某博物館收購的東西,卻都被小心的留下來,並安放在這些被時間遺忘的奇妙空間裡了。

在大學林立的京都,書店當然少不了,而古書店更是散佈在城中各個角落。敞開任何一間大街小巷裡的古書店的木門,在或者井然有序或者亂中有序的書牆旁,很多時都放了一疊一百日元一份的古書店地圖。如果不是蒐集古書,而只想找平宜的二手新書,連鎖二手書店Book-Off 裡的文庫本低至一百日元一本,書的種類既多且齊,更重要的是新淨。花個一千日元,大概便可以買到夏目漱石的全套小說作品了。

差不多每個星期,京都市內的寺院或神社境內,都舉行各類大小型的古董或手作市集。遊走於數以百計的攤檔間,淹沒於舊物的汪洋中,在延綿不絕的平貴價古董和服、珍品或廉價出口陶瓷漆器、大小家品家俱、古書雜誌唱片、分不清年代真偽的版畫日本畫、懷舊玩具和無奇不有的無聊小玩意的小檔間,我漸漸從這幾近過剩的物質文化當中參透這個城市的林林總總的歷史和故事。 在四条河原町的大百貨公司和各連鎖店陸續推出新商品的同時,京都的人們仍然不輕易放棄他們的舊物,在年中無休風雨不改京城中各大小古董舊物店和市集裡,美麗的物件的生命得以這種具有尊嚴的方式延續下去,這無疑對我來說,才是日本的古董舊物販賣裡最美麗的地方。

 

As with many historical cities, Kyoto is laden with old things. If one sees a temple or a shrine in every street, one also finds almost as many antique shops and antiquarian bookshops in Kyoto. For centuries beautiful things were made, collected, adored, passed on. The Japanese people have a fetish for all things made. Even for the smallest, the most ordinary thing, the Japanese craftsmen put their utmost care in its creation. Every thing, down to the smallest part, every single detail is perfectly done, and follows an aesthetic that is almost as strict as their disciplined conduct. Things made are cherished, and they take great pains to keep them from harm, and make even more beautiful containers for each of these items. In this history of material culture, it is not surprising that the Japanese love “zakka" (many things, miscellaneous things), “komono" (small things) and “komonoire" (container for small things), while antique shops and antiquarian bookshops along shopping arcades, crowds in a flea market are just ordinary glimpses of everyday Kyoto.

Occasionally one encounters an antique shop while one is walking about Kyoto. Not those that sell expensive fine art pieces, but those curiosity shops where they sell all things weird and odd. Children’s books from the early Showa period, postcards, stamps, empty match boxes, plastic dolls and toys, clothings and accessories from who knows where, handbags and trunks, head pieces and masks that look like Halloween costume, SM apparatus, elementary school desks and chairs, sign board of a forgotten shop…… all kinds of rubbish that, not for at least another hundred years until they find a new master or be eventually acquired by a museum. Till the time comes these things are being kept with care in this time forsaken space.

Bookshops are quintessential in this university city, and antiquarian bookshops especially. Sliding open the wooden door of any old bookshop along main streets and quiet alleys, next to walls of orderly or disorderly books, one always finds a stack of antiquarian bookshop map for 100 yen per copy. If not collecting antiquarian books, one can also get cheap secondhand new books from the chain bookshop Book-Off, where a decent paperback copy costs as low as 100 yen. There are usually enough variety to choose from, and mostly clean and neat. Imagine getting the whole set of Soseki Natsume’s novels at 1,000 yen.

Every week, inside temples and shrines there are huge antique and craft markets. Wandering amidst hundreds of stalls, submerged in the sea of old things, from this endless seascape of fine and cheap antique kimono, collectible or export ceramics, every kind of house ware and furniture, books and records, unverified old prints and paintings, nostalgic toys and useless trinkets, I gradually learn about the various histories and stories of this city through this surfeiting material culture. While the big shopping malls and chain stores in Shijo Kawaramachi keep promoting new products, the people of Kyoto cling to their old things, and in their regular antique shops and markets, the lives of beautiful things are prolonged in a dignified way, which undoubtedly to me is the most beautiful thing in this entire old thing enterprise.

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