京都・步行都市|Kyoto, the Walking City|歩くまち・京都

京都・步行都市|Kyoto, the Walking City|歩くまち・京都

京都・步行都市|Kyoto, the Walking City|歩くまち・京都

 

在京都街上不時會看到白㡳粉紅字題為「歩くまち・京都」憲章的展示板。沒有佇足細看,大意是京都市政府有意為京都市塑造一個適合所有人步行的環境。實質的行動包括了京都火車站南口的改善工程。

京都真的是個很好走的城市。據說平安京建都時,其設計乃是建基於陰陽道,京城裡不但佈滿了結界,而且劃分成東蒼龍(八坂神社)、南朱雀(城南宮)、西白虎(松尾大社)、北玄武(上賀茂神社)四個部份,由四個神祇守護新的京城。

京都火車站位處的八条通,東側連接東大路通,西側連接西大路通,東西大路通北側又以北大路通相連。沿着這個大圈走,差不多等於環繞京都市走了一轉,主要的國寶文化財史蹟都在這個圈以內。本來京都的國寶文化財史蹟數量比便利店還多,幾乎每走兩步便又一所了。

在我居住的東山區,沿山一帶都是著名的神社和寺院。由清水寺開始,一路順着佈滿小店的小路往北走,路經坂本龍馬之墓、高台寺,走過有寧寧之路之稱的優雅石塀小路,到了圓山公園和八坂神社,外面便是一片繁華的祇園,再往西走,過橋橫過鴨川後,就是京都市內最熱鬧的購物區四条河原町。如果從祗園往南一直走,則有京都最古老的禪寺建仁寺、六波羅蜜寺、河井寬次郎記念館、豊國神社、京都國立博物館、安放了一千零一尊千手觀音像的三十三間堂等。無論往哪一個方向走,都總有值得看的事物。這兒的大路寬且直,小路安靜整潔而充滿古都風情,走着讓人很享受,很容易便可以走上一整天了。

漸漸的,即使不懂,我也開始感受到這個古都的由來:甚麼人物甚麼事件跟甚麼地方有甚麼關連、時代的變遷和地區間氛圍的轉換、所謂神道教和佛教共融的日本人的心,等。

在這之前,來過京都兩趟。都只是買一張市公車一日乘車劵,看最受歡迎的景點,看完了又跳上市公車往下一個著名景點,這種短期旅遊的點對點式觀光。結果對於京都這個古今交錯的都城,卻沒有真正的看到。

現在的我,可以看着地圖,每天試走不同的路,慢慢的走,漸漸的更認識京都。

 

One often sees along the streets of Kyoto a signboard titled “Arukumachi Kyoto (Kyoto, the Walking City)" in bright pink characters against a white background. I have yet to look closely yet, but from what I see it is mainly about a constitution by the Kyoto City government to create a friendly environment for walking around the city of Kyoto. One of measures being the reconstruction of the southern entrance of Kyoto Station.

Kyoto is really a great city for walking. It is said that when the Heian-kyo was built the design of the new capital was based on Onmyodo, and while the city was covered by Siimaabandha, it was also divided into four regions: Blue Dragon of the East (Yasaka Shrine), Vermillion Bird of the South ( Jonan-gu Shrine), White Tiger of the West (Matsunoo-taisha), and Black Tortoise of the North (Kamigamo Shrine), and protected by these dieties.

Hachijo-doori, where Kyoto Station is situated, is joined by Higashiooji-doori to the east, and Nishiooji-doori to the west. Higashiooji-doori and Nishiooji-doori are in turn joined by Kitaooji-doori to the north. Follow this circle and one has basically navigated around the city of Kyoto. The major national treasures, cultural properties, and heritage sites lie within this circle. And there are more of these than convenient stores, one always comes across something within a few steps’ distance.

In Higashiyama district where I live, there are many famous shrines and temples along the mountain side. Beginning from Kiyomizu-dera, towards north along the path dotted with small shops, passing by the grave of  Ryuma Sakamoto, Kodai-ji, at the end of the elegant stone-paved path called “Path of Nene" one reaches Maruyama Park and Yasaka Shrine, outside of which is the bustling Gion district, further west of which brings one across the Kamo River to the most fashionable shopping area of Kyoto, Shijo Kawaramachi. If one walks south from Gion, one sees Kennin-ji, Kyoto’s oldest Zen temple, Rokuharamitsu-ji, Kawai Kanjiro’s House, Hokoku Shrine, Kyoto National Museum, Sanjusangen-do that houses 1,001 Thousand Armed Kannon statues. Whichever position one takes, one always sees something. The roads here are wide and straight, while paths are quiet and clean, immersed in the aura of the ancient city so that it is a delight to walk, and one can easily spend one day just walking.

Gradually, not having studied any of it, I begin to sense the history of this ancient city: places and how people and events were related to them, the passing of time and changes of atmosphere between regions, Shintoism and Buddhism and the spirit of the Japanese.

I have been to Kyoto twice, and every time I followed the same short-trip point-to-point model: bought the same city bus pass, went to the most popular spots, looked and then jumped onto the bus again for yet another popular spot. But I never saw the real city of Kyoto.

And now I can look at the map and try a different route each day. Slowly I walk, and slowly I learn more about Kyoto.

廣告

發表迴響

在下方填入你的資料或按右方圖示以社群網站登入:

WordPress.com 標誌

您的留言將使用 WordPress.com 帳號。 登出 /  變更 )

Google+ photo

您的留言將使用 Google+ 帳號。 登出 /  變更 )

Twitter picture

您的留言將使用 Twitter 帳號。 登出 /  變更 )

Facebook照片

您的留言將使用 Facebook 帳號。 登出 /  變更 )

連結到 %s